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When my home was built, the builder removed all the topsoil and I was left with hard clay. Sometimes I can barely get my shovel into the ground. What can I do to improve my soil?
"When contractors remove the topsoil from properties before they are developed, the new homeowner is often left with subsoil," says Jane C. Martin, horticulture agent with the Ohio State University extension. "This subsoil is typically high in clay content, poorly aerated, poorly drained, low in nutrients, low in organic matter, and difficult to work with."
Cultivating healthy soil takes some time and work. Martin suggests first getting a soil test. (A state-by-state listing of soil test labs and directions for taking an accurate soil sample can be found in the Archives at OrganicGardening.com.) The test will assess the fertility and pH of the soil; most tests will give amendment recommendations. Next, you must begin adding organic matter, such as compost or composted manure, to your soil to improve its structure and thus its drainage and aeration. "Organic matter can be added any time the soil is not wet or frozen," says Martin. Make sure your soil is workable by taking a handful and squeezing it. The soil should form a clump that falls apart easily. If the clump doesn't crumble readily, you'll have to wait for your soil to dry out before you add organic matter. Ideally, you should add compost to your soil annually in early spring and late summer. "For vegetable gardens and annual flower beds, a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost can be added and tilled in to a 6- to 8-inch depth," says Martin. "For perennial gardens, add 3 to 4 inches and till in to a depth of 8 to 12 inches, if possible." Your soil will gradually improve over a period of years if you continue to add organic matter each season. Also, remember to avoid working the soil when it is wet and minimize foot traffic in your garden beds. In wide beds, create paths with pavers and always avoid stepping on the soil.
